<?xml version="1.0"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xml:lang="en">
	<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Euripedus</id>
	<title>ATITD5 - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Euripedus"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/tale5/Special:Contributions/Euripedus"/>
	<updated>2026-04-04T19:01:09Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.35.2</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103056</id>
		<title>Explosives</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103056"/>
		<updated>2011-06-23T00:14:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:ItemInfo|weight=1|bulk=1|image=explosives.jpg|description=Big Badda Boom.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Requires [[Chemistry_Recipe_-_Explosives/Amunet|Chemistry Recipe - Explosives]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Volatile Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Set|Set's Compound Extract]]. Volatile explosives can detonate while running or warping or using the chariot. The only safe way to transport volatile explosives is to set Emote - Gait: Walking.&lt;br /&gt;
*Low Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Osiris|Osiris's Compound Extract]]. Low explosives require an Explosives Handling skill of 3 or more.&lt;br /&gt;
*High Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Thoth|Thoth's Compound Extract]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Explosives are made in an upgraded chemistry lab. It does not need to have a macerator or an alcohol lamp, but it needs to have all glassware installed. It is recommended to make some q1 glassware to use for making explosives.&lt;br /&gt;
It is a good idea to build a separate compound for an explosives chemistry lab. While a player tries to create explosives, mishaps will happen, causing damage to the lab and the surrounding area. It is a good idea to have a high Structure Repair skill when trying to make explosives. Unsuccessfully repairing a building starts a 60 seconds timer.&lt;br /&gt;
 Making explosives starts a constitution timer. (82 seconds at con 3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Volatile explosive detonations (not to an expo site) cause a detonation in an 15x15 grid, centered on the location of detonation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repairing an expedition site (and presumably chariot) takes the following materials:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
N * 222 Bricks&lt;br /&gt;
N * 120 Boards&lt;br /&gt;
N * 115 Rope&lt;br /&gt;
N * 55 Canvas&lt;br /&gt;
N * 13 Cut Stone&lt;br /&gt;
N * 7 Cable&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It's currently unknown how N is calculated, but seems to be a non-linear function of the amount of explosives used to blow up the expedition site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Explosives handling==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The first time a player tries to make some volatile explosives in a chemistry lab, he or she gets the explosives handling skill.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Volatile explosives&amp;quot; can be made by anyone.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Low explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 3 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;High explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 5 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These numbers are from a chem lab without any calibration, just low q glassware.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 1 and 2, 1 volatile explosive is made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 3, 2 volatile explosives are made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 4, 2 low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 5, 2 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 6, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 7, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 8, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 9, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Usage==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
In a [[Detonation Box]]:&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 High Explosives = +1000 Gravel scattered over a very wide area. There might have been more I just didn't find them.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Low Explosives = 2500 Gravel stays in the box.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Volatile Explosives = +2500 Gravel scattered in 6-200+ piles over a wide area.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* can use a minimum of 40 explosives for a proportional amount of gravel/medium stones&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Explosives.jpg&amp;diff=103055</id>
		<title>File:Explosives.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Explosives.jpg&amp;diff=103055"/>
		<updated>2011-06-23T00:13:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103054</id>
		<title>Explosives</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103054"/>
		<updated>2011-06-23T00:13:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:ItemInfo|weight=1|bulk=1|image=explosives|description=Big Badda Boom.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Requires [[Chemistry_Recipe_-_Explosives/Amunet|Chemistry Recipe - Explosives]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Volatile Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Set|Set's Compound Extract]]. Volatile explosives can detonate while running or warping or using the chariot. The only safe way to transport volatile explosives is to set Emote - Gait: Walking.&lt;br /&gt;
*Low Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Osiris|Osiris's Compound Extract]]. Low explosives require an Explosives Handling skill of 3 or more.&lt;br /&gt;
*High Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Thoth|Thoth's Compound Extract]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Explosives are made in an upgraded chemistry lab. It does not need to have a macerator or an alcohol lamp, but it needs to have all glassware installed. It is recommended to make some q1 glassware to use for making explosives.&lt;br /&gt;
It is a good idea to build a separate compound for an explosives chemistry lab. While a player tries to create explosives, mishaps will happen, causing damage to the lab and the surrounding area. It is a good idea to have a high Structure Repair skill when trying to make explosives. Unsuccessfully repairing a building starts a 60 seconds timer.&lt;br /&gt;
 Making explosives starts a constitution timer. (82 seconds at con 3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Volatile explosive detonations (not to an expo site) cause a detonation in an 15x15 grid, centered on the location of detonation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repairing an expedition site (and presumably chariot) takes the following materials:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
N * 222 Bricks&lt;br /&gt;
N * 120 Boards&lt;br /&gt;
N * 115 Rope&lt;br /&gt;
N * 55 Canvas&lt;br /&gt;
N * 13 Cut Stone&lt;br /&gt;
N * 7 Cable&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It's currently unknown how N is calculated, but seems to be a non-linear function of the amount of explosives used to blow up the expedition site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Explosives handling==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The first time a player tries to make some volatile explosives in a chemistry lab, he or she gets the explosives handling skill.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Volatile explosives&amp;quot; can be made by anyone.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Low explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 3 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;High explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 5 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These numbers are from a chem lab without any calibration, just low q glassware.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 1 and 2, 1 volatile explosive is made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 3, 2 volatile explosives are made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 4, 2 low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 5, 2 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 6, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 7, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 8, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 9, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Usage==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
In a [[Detonation Box]]:&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 High Explosives = +1000 Gravel scattered over a very wide area. There might have been more I just didn't find them.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Low Explosives = 2500 Gravel stays in the box.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Volatile Explosives = +2500 Gravel scattered in 6-200+ piles over a wide area.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* can use a minimum of 40 explosives for a proportional amount of gravel/medium stones&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103053</id>
		<title>Explosives</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Explosives&amp;diff=103053"/>
		<updated>2011-06-23T00:11:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{image=explosives.jpg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Requires [[Chemistry_Recipe_-_Explosives/Amunet|Chemistry Recipe - Explosives]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Volatile Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Set|Set's Compound Extract]]. Volatile explosives can detonate while running or warping or using the chariot. The only safe way to transport volatile explosives is to set Emote - Gait: Walking.&lt;br /&gt;
*Low Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Osiris|Osiris's Compound Extract]]. Low explosives require an Explosives Handling skill of 3 or more.&lt;br /&gt;
*High Explosives require 50 [[Gunpowder]], 10 [[Aluminum Powder]] and 2 [[Chemistry/Extracts/Thoth|Thoth's Compound Extract]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Explosives are made in an upgraded chemistry lab. It does not need to have a macerator or an alcohol lamp, but it needs to have all glassware installed. It is recommended to make some q1 glassware to use for making explosives.&lt;br /&gt;
It is a good idea to build a separate compound for an explosives chemistry lab. While a player tries to create explosives, mishaps will happen, causing damage to the lab and the surrounding area. It is a good idea to have a high Structure Repair skill when trying to make explosives. Unsuccessfully repairing a building starts a 60 seconds timer.&lt;br /&gt;
 Making explosives starts a constitution timer. (82 seconds at con 3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Volatile explosive detonations (not to an expo site) cause a detonation in an 15x15 grid, centered on the location of detonation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repairing an expedition site (and presumably chariot) takes the following materials:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
N * 222 Bricks&lt;br /&gt;
N * 120 Boards&lt;br /&gt;
N * 115 Rope&lt;br /&gt;
N * 55 Canvas&lt;br /&gt;
N * 13 Cut Stone&lt;br /&gt;
N * 7 Cable&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It's currently unknown how N is calculated, but seems to be a non-linear function of the amount of explosives used to blow up the expedition site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Explosives handling==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The first time a player tries to make some volatile explosives in a chemistry lab, he or she gets the explosives handling skill.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Volatile explosives&amp;quot; can be made by anyone.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;Low explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 3 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;quot;High explosives&amp;quot; requires explosives handling 5 to make.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These numbers are from a chem lab without any calibration, just low q glassware.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 1 and 2, 1 volatile explosive is made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 3, 2 volatile explosives are made on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 4, 2 low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 5, 2 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 6, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 7, 3 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 8, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 At handling 9, 4 high or low or volatile explosives on success.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Usage==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
In a [[Detonation Box]]:&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 High Explosives = +1000 Gravel scattered over a very wide area. There might have been more I just didn't find them.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Low Explosives = 2500 Gravel stays in the box.&lt;br /&gt;
 100 Medium Stones + 100 Volatile Explosives = +2500 Gravel scattered in 6-200+ piles over a wide area.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* can use a minimum of 40 explosives for a proportional amount of gravel/medium stones&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Portable_Star_Lab&amp;diff=100666</id>
		<title>Portable Star Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Portable_Star_Lab&amp;diff=100666"/>
		<updated>2011-06-02T05:14:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=starlab.jpg|size=n/a|where=[[where::Outside]]&lt;br /&gt;
|description=Used to view new stars for pyrotechnics  &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
'''Portable Star Labs''' are the method by which new star recipes are researched, for use in the [[Test of Pyrotechnics]]. Getting a Portable Star Lab is not required for passing the principle or the Test of pyrotechnics.  It is an independent tool that any Egyptians can use to contribute to the variety of stars that are available to everyone. Here's how.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each university starts with the same two basic star recipes, and can gain additional ones using Star Labs. Each university that has opened the Pyrotechnics technology will distribute approximately two '''Portable Star Labs''' to players per week, apparently at random intervals. After use, a lab can be turned in at any University that has opened Pyrotechnics (note: not necessarily the one from which it was received). Once a single university has received seven labs, the scientists there, also known as a random number generator, will select one of the seven submitted stars, and players will then be able to learn that recipe from that university, and only that university.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Star labs are pre-loaded with materials to fire 60 shots. After each shot, the owner is given the option of naming the shot that was just fired, selecting the shot that was just fired as the best so far, refiring the last shot without changing it, or firing a new random shot. Players other than the owner can register as watchers of the display, and will be able to see the stars as they are launched, and read the costs of the most recently-launched star. The owner of the lab has sole discretion over which star is selected as the &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; - it is not a voting process - but typically the owners solicit input from the watchers and make a collaborative decision. Once a final decision has been made and named, the lab can be turned in at a university. At this point, the number of watchers becomes important: this number is a weighting factor on how likely it is that that particular star design will be selected, once 7 total have been turned in. (Example: six labs are turned in with 1 watcher, and a seventh is turned in with 14 watchers. There will be a 70% chance that the seventh lab is the one selected)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note '''that registering as a watcher but not being present for the using of the lab is not effective'''. The lab only counts those that have registered and are within range of the shot fired as having watched that star. Therefore, leaving a star lab on the road to accumulate watchers is of no real value (unless those that register return for the using of the lab). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Star labs seem to produce several basic kinds of stars: (not an exhaustive list yet)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Pulsing stars''' - these have a strong glow on the first star, and usually leave a simple trail. There is considerable variability in the size of the star, and the length of the trail. The basic frog and canary designs are this type.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cone stars (comets)''' - Have a strong glow at the front, and diffuse into a short 'cone' shape.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Bomb stars (poppers)''' - these are often hard to see, since they fly their lifetime unignited, and then explode at the end. Single poppers are useful as near-invisible platforms for delivering other stars, while showers of many poppers can be an impressive finale.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Trails (&amp;quot;Thin Red Line&amp;quot;)''' - long thin trails of light, often used for spirals and geometric shapes.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Sparkler Stars''' - these are typically crowd favorites. They leave a shower of sparks as a trail, usually but not always in the same color as the head of the star. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Stars are typically a single basic color, but there are occasional instances of two-color stars. In some cases, both colors are present in the star, and in others, the star has a multi-coloured trail.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Star Costs: Stars seem to have their costs randomly generated, along the following parameters:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* some quantity of one of the four binding materials (clay, beeswax, cactus sap, or tar)&lt;br /&gt;
* some quantity of sulfur&lt;br /&gt;
* some quantity of charcoal&lt;br /&gt;
* some quantity of 1 or 2 types of metal salts (range 5-250? salts per 10 stars) - normally 1 salt type for most stars, but two-color stars will have two salt types.&lt;br /&gt;
* aluminum powder (range 5-250? powder per 10 stars) - this is only required on sparkler- or bomb-type stars, as described above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
see [[Star Recipes]] for list of known Stars, Costs and University Locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Star Labs need not be returned to the same university from which they are received. It is preferable that they ALL be returned to the University of Sterope for Tale 5, so that we can maximize the number of new stars opened, and players can learn all new recipes at one place.&lt;br /&gt;
* Turning in one lab is independent of the university producing another lab (e.g. it is possible for a university to produce a second lab before the first is turned in, or even before the first is requested by a player, but the latter seems quite unlikely)&lt;br /&gt;
* There is no known game benefit to having or using a star lab, outside of its intended purpose of returning it to a university. '''Please don't keep them'''.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you don't leave the nomination of a favourite until the end, one cannot go back and you risk losing your star lab. Any favourite nomination is overwritten by a new favourite, so you can nominate the first one that looks half decent and then nominate a new one if you get a better one later.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you turn in a lab, they might want you to rename the favorite star, if that name has been used already on a Star Lab. You can rename the favorite through the utility menu on the portable star lab.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Starlab.jpg&amp;diff=100665</id>
		<title>File:Starlab.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Starlab.jpg&amp;diff=100665"/>
		<updated>2011-06-02T05:14:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100580</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100580"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:20:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:ItemInfo|weight=1|bulk=1|image=barley.jpg|description=Used to grow barley.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, This gives the new stalk a chance to grow. I harvested as soon as a new stalk appeared and only got back 1 barley, so there seems to be a small time requirement for growth. Despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Flaxbed.jpg&amp;diff=100579</id>
		<title>File:Flaxbed.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Flaxbed.jpg&amp;diff=100579"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:18:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Flax&amp;diff=100577</id>
		<title>Flax</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Flax&amp;diff=100577"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:17:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:ItemInfo|weight=1|bulk=1|image=flaxbed.jpg|description=Used to produce twine, rope, and thread.}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flax is a vital crop used in the production of textiles. Flax's main products, [[tow]] and [[lint]], are processed in order to make [[canvas]], [[linen]], and [[rope]], all goods fundamental to the Egyptian lifestyle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flax comes in many varieties. Anyone may receive a packet of either Old Egypt or Nile Green flax seeds from any [[School of Art and Music]]. Which one you get is random, and not determined by whether you carry a jug. While growing the Nile Green variety requires water and [[jugs]], it also gives twice as much flax per bed as the Old Egypt variety.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Through [[Crossbreeding]], it is possible to design even more potent flax strains, and in Tale 5 many new strains have already been created which are far superior to Old Egypt and Nile Green.  See the [[Flax Seeds]] page for a list of the newer and more popular strains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
To grow flax, plant a bed of flax plants using the &amp;quot;Plant&amp;quot; menu, on grass. Flax will not grow on sand. After a short while, green flax shoots with blue flowers will appear in the bed. Shortly afterward, yellow weeds will appear. Weed the flax bed by selecting the appropriate menu option. Depending on the variety of [[Flax Seeds]] being used, you may need to water the flax when you weed it (using one [[requires::Water in Jugs]]), and you may need to weed the bed several times. Eventually, the flax will complete growing and you may harvest it. There are no signs that the flax is ready for harvest except more flowers grow in the flax bed. The best way to tell is to click on the flax and see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get water, you need [[jugs]], which you can get by signing up to learn the [[Pottery]] skill at a [[School of Thought]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flax grown in the above manner will not produce any seeds. To grow [[requires::Flax Seeds]], plant a bed of flax but do not weed it. Shortly after weeds appear in the bed, the flax will go to seed. You will see more of the yellow weeds. You may then harvest seeds from the flax up to 5 times before it finally dies. When the plant dies, it will leave more seeds on the ground.  It takes 1 Teppy Minute (about 1m 07s real time) for the Harvest option to reappear after harvesting a seed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Take care to not use up all your flax seeds when growing flax; you should always keep at least a few in reserve to grow more seeds. If you do run out, you can go back to a School of Art to get a few more seeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hotkeys ==&lt;br /&gt;
Under [Self-&amp;gt;Options-&amp;gt;One-Click and Related], there is an option to enable [[hotkeys]] on flax.  With this option enabled, you can use '''[W]''' to weed and harvest flax, and '''[H]''' to harvest seeds.  Note however that if this option is enabled you will have to physically run to each flax bed to weed/harvest it, whereas with this option disabled your character doesn't have to physically move.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Pollution / Soil Quality==&lt;br /&gt;
Among other species of flax, [[Nile Green]] will reduce soil quality around the ground where it is grown.  It doesn't seem to affect only the exact spot, but the general area, perhaps the whole coordinate area up to a range of 2-3 in each direction.  ''(Needs independent verification)''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nile Green: In a 4x4 coordinate area in Sinai, 3362,4114 I began planting NG and harvested 180 or so before I started getting only seed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I planted over 500 NG and didn't lose any flax (3420,4382 Sinai)--Ferns&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have harvested over 3000 Nile Green and am still getting regular returns. (FB 3898, -431) --Andara&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pollution is probably not the right word for it.  Where NG has been planted in quantity, Old Egypt flax subsequently planted may yield no flax and a message about poor soil (poor soil is not the same thing as pollution). [[User:JulianJaynes|JulianJaynes]] 01:33, 31 December 2008 (EST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update--the same spot now returns no flax and a message about poor soil quality for Nile Green as well.  I can't tell you how much flax I've planted, but I've been using the same spot since we got jugs.  The depleted soil is only for 2-3 coords, and moving over a bit takes me out of the depleted zone. [[User:JulianJaynes|JulianJaynes]] 14:12, 3 January 2009 (EST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BooBoo and I also got poor soil messages in conjunction with Acidity 21k.  We grew about 14k flax with Nile Green Seeds in a 4-5 day period.  Read more here: [[Pollution]]. --Pitaboo&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{ProducedBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Historical Notes==&lt;br /&gt;
There is general agreement that present day cultivated flax is most closely related to wild ''L. angustafolium''; a wild progenitor seen throughout the Mediterranean Basin, North Africa, the Near East, Iran, Caucasia and Western Europe. Other species of the ''Linum L.'' genus are located over the steppe belts of the temperate Mediterranean, the northern hemisphere and China.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Because it was one of the first domesticated plants, flax is recognized as a foundation crop of modern civilization. It responded well to the first efforts at domestication as was evidenced by a noticeable increase in seed size, higher oil yield and /or a longer stem and a seed boll that did not easily dehisce (burst open releasing the seeds). These significant genetic changes were fundamental in flax attaining a leading position in the economic, social, religious and political lives of Neolithic people and further positioned it for a future inexorably interwoven with that of human civilization.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(From [http://www.saskflax.com/flaxhistory.html Flax History] on saskflax.com)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flax Flax] on Wikipedia.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Resources]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{Languages}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Barley.jpg&amp;diff=100574</id>
		<title>File:Barley.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Barley.jpg&amp;diff=100574"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:12:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100573</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100573"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:11:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:barley.jpg|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, This gives the new stalk a chance to grow. I harvested as soon as a new stalk appeared and only got back 1 barley, so there seems to be a small time requirement for growth. Despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100572</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100572"/>
		<updated>2011-06-01T00:01:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: /* Using Water Only */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, This gives the new stalk a chance to grow. I harvested as soon as a new stalk appeared and only got back 1 barley, so there seems to be a small time requirement for growth. Despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100571</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100571"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T23:57:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: /* Using Water Only */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, Despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100570</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100570"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T23:56:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: /* Using Water Only */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100569</id>
		<title>Barley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Barley&amp;diff=100569"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T23:56:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: /* Using Water Only */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Languages}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Growing Barley Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Information from Tale 4 is shown below and has not, apparently, changed.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Note: before you get into the frustrating process of fighting weeds, bear in mind that you will save a lot of grief by using water and grain fertilizer (or just water) only, and  harvesting after weeds appear, rather than attempting a full harvest on every patch, because of the time involved.  The payoff for attempting full harvests increases if you have passed worship tests. &lt;br /&gt;
* Barley is highly recommended as an offline chore because it is more difficult and expensive than growing vegetables, or harvesting wood or grass. Grow and harvest 1000 barley to enable offline barley. You can harvest crops grown by others to achieve this. &lt;br /&gt;
*If a person who has passed worship tests harvests barley, they should get 10 more barley per full harvest, per worship test passed (at least this has been so in previous telings).  One player can harvest barley another player has planted in order to take advantage of the bonus.&lt;br /&gt;
*A variation of the water and fertilizer only method is to  harvest when yellow or white/green weeds appear, water only when spiky brown weeds appear, and use both water and fertilizer if no weeds appear.  You can get a few more full harvests this way.&lt;br /&gt;
*Barley growing can be macroed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is one of the staple crops of Egypt. Harvested raw, it can be cooked in a [[Grain Oven]] to make roasted barley (light, medium, dark or burnt). It can be turned into [[Malt (raw)]], and the malt can itself be cooked similarly. Malted barley is a primary ingredient in [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is grown from [[Barley (Raw)]] using water and [[Grain Fertilizer]], and (optionally) [[Weed Killer]], yielding more Barley (raw).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you have grown and harvested 1000 barley, you become eligible to grow barley as one of your [[Offline Chores]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Cooking]] &lt;br /&gt;
* Placed on a [[Malting Tray]] to make [[Malt (raw)]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feed for [[Chickens]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cultivation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Barley is grown using [[Barley (Raw)]], water, [[Grain Fertilizer]] and [[Weed Killer]], and requires you to know the [[Barley Cultivation]] technology. New citizens may obtain a starter packet of 4 raw barley from any [[University of Worship]] where Barley Cultivation has been unlocked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Grain Fertilizer]] = 1 [[Rotten Fish]], 1 [[Dung]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]]. &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Weed Killer]] = 1 [[Toad Skin Mushroom]], 5 [[Water in Jugs]], and 5 [[Wood]] in a [[Kettle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Weed killer is not strictly necessary for growing barley, and some cultivation strategies ignore it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General Information ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant a barley patch on grassy terrain. Barley patches have controls to add water, fertilizer, and weed killer, and meters indicating the current level of each. &lt;br /&gt;
* Water, fertilizer, and weed killer levels will all drop as time passes. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are high, the barley will grow rapidly. &lt;br /&gt;
* When water and fertilizer are low, the barley will die back. &lt;br /&gt;
* Weed killer has no effect on the pace of growth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Barley may be harvested at any time. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the patch does not display as &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot;, it will yield between 0 and 5 barley, depending on the presence of weeds and how much the barley has been allowed to grow. &lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; patches will yield 10 barley.  The yield is increased by 10 for every rank you earn in the Worship discipline (a Student will get 20 total, a Prentice 30, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
* In order for a barley patch to achieve &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status, it must have reached a certain level of growth and be entirely free of weeds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' A barley patch which is &amp;quot;Ready for Harvest&amp;quot; will die 20 minutes later if left unharvested.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Weeds ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As barley grows, it is subject to attack by three varieties of weed.  These appear randomly and, when present, prevent a barley field from reaching maturity.  More than one type of weed may be present simultaneously.  A field with weeds can be harvested, but the barley yield is less than one without.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds thrive and remain in a field until killed.  Unlike [[flax]] weeds, barley weeds cannot simply be yanked out of the ground; they must be made to die off by manipulating the level of water, fertilizer, and weedkiller in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #1''' is thin and spiky.  It thrives on fertilizer and is immune to weedkiller.  To get rid of it, stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will disappear when the fertilizer level gets low enough.  Water and weedkiller neither help nor harm the weed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #2''' is yellow with small leaves.  It thrives on water.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding water.  The weed will disappear when water is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The fertilizer level has no effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Weed #3''' is green with a white puffball on top.  It thrives on fertilizer.  To get rid of it, start adding weedkiller and stop adding fertilizer.  The weed will vanish when fertilizer is low enough and weedkiller is high enough.  The water level does not affect it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Picture !! How to Kill !! Unaffected By&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed1.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert&lt;br /&gt;
| Water, Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed2.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Water, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Fertilizer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Image:Weed3.jpg|thumb|50px]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Low Fert, &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;High Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
| Water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Brown: High Water &amp;amp; Weedkiller&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Fert&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: High Weedkiller &amp;amp; Water&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your goal is to grow a barley field to completion, you will devote a lot of time to fighting weeds.  Occasionally a lucky field will make it to maturity without a single weed, but these are rare.  More often you will have to watch your barley closely and manage the levels in order to keep your barley healthy, while cutting back on those ingredients that feed the weeds.  A field may suffer multiple weed attacks before it reaches maturity.  Patience and a good supply of weedkiller are required of the devoted barley farmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
('''Hekatef's Observation:''' Although we know how to treat weeds once they appear, there is no way to ''prevent'' them that I know of.  Weed appearances seem to be entirely random, with no controllable factors making them more or less frequent.  They will happily sprout up in a field already full of weedkiller.  They do not seem to &amp;quot;spread&amp;quot;, so having weeds in one field will not affect adjacent fields.  I know of no ecological affects that influence the appearance of weeds.  In other words, forget about trying to ''prevent'' weeds, and just deal with them as the inevitable random force they are.  If anyone should discover a reliable method to prevent weeds, discussion is warmly encouraged!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting Methods ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water, Fertilizer and Weed Killer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The [[User:Hekatef|Hekatef]] Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I like to run 3 barley fields at a time -- that's as many as I can fit on the screen simultaneously while still zoomed in enough to spot weeds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I start a field by adding 1 water and 1 fertilizer right away.  At all times, for as long as there are no weeds to worry about, I keep a field at max water and fertilizer (or just a smidgen below max).  This keeps the field progressing quickly toward &amp;quot;Ready to Harvest&amp;quot; status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I keep a ''very'' close eye out for weeds and treat them as soon as they appear.  I don't skimp on the weedkiller -- if it's needed, then I keep weedkiller at max (or a smidgen below max) for as long as it takes for the weed(s) to die.  I stop water and/or fertilizer, as needed, while keeping the other ingredient maxed out; that way the barley can stay as nourished as possible in the meantime.  Sometimes a field is hit with multiple weeds simultaneously, and at these times there's nothing to do but max out weedkiller, withhold water ''and'' fertilizer, and wait -- the barley will suffer a little, but once the weeds are gone you'll be able to make up for lost time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, at the end of a session of barley harvesting, I find I've used fertilizer and weedkiller in more or less equal amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stay observant!'''  Sometimes weeds are very small and hard to see.  Zoom in and move the camera a bit if you're not sure.  Also, a weed infestation can consist of more than one plant: just because you see one weed fade away, it doesn't mean you've eradicated all of them.  Don't start adding water/fertilizer again until you're positive the field is free of weeds that thrive on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Drowning Barley Method by Xaxyx ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those Egyptians who find weedkiller to be a bit difficult or costly to obtain in large quantities, I recommend the following method.  It uses some fertilizer, very little weedkiller -- and lots of water!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start out, plant as many barley fields as you feel you can run comfortably.  (I run four; ymmv.)  Fill their water to maximum.  Give them each a pulse of fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Every tick, fill the water back to maximum.  Growing near a water source helps so you don't have to run for more all the time.  Keep water maxed at all times and in all circumstances; don't even think about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add fertilizer only if it goes below half, and only if the bed is totally weed-free.  Don't fill it up too high; just one pulse is plenty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weeds will invariably show up.  Here's how you deal with them:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Thorny: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Eventually, the thorns will die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Green/white: Stop adding fertilizer.  Continue to keep water maximized.  Wait until fertilizer is low -- 25% or less -- then fill the weedkiller.  Keep weedkiller (and water!) near or at max until the weeds die.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow: Harvest and start the bed over.  Don't hesitate to do this, even if the bed was almost full.  It's much easier -- and cheaper -- to just plant a new bed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you've killed off all of the thorny and green/white weeds, add some fertilizer -- not too much, though, as before.  Continue to keep the water at full.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this method, about half of your beds should max out, the ones you harvest early will often produce 3-5 barley, and you'll end up using very little weedkiller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water and Fertilizer ===&lt;br /&gt;
Plant the barley, immediately add 1 water and 1 fertilizer. Add 1 of each every other tick, and if weeds appear, immediately harvest the bed and plant a new one. While you won't get many grown to full harvest, this usually ends up netting about 4-5 barley per field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With weedkiller being pretty expensive for someone just starting out I use the following method with more full harvest yields per planting session...after planting add 1 weed killer with the 1 water and 1 fert.  Add 1 water and 1 fert for every tick until weeds appear then harvest. (this way if you can only get your hands on a few toadskins you can still plant and harvest quite a bit of barley.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Efficient Fertilizer Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Augma's method)&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to make things as simple as possible for myself in the face of barley's randomness. Each time the water and fertilizer level moves down, I call this one &amp;quot;tick&amp;quot;. I use about 100 fertilizer and harvest well over 100 barley (net) in about an hour. If you plant more than 1 barley at a time clearly you can make more efficient use of your time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1) Plant the barley and add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2) For the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ticks:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds or weeds appear, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
** Otherwise, add 1 water and 1 fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3) For the 4th tick, only add 1 water. (no fertilizer even if there aren't weeds)&lt;br /&gt;
* 4) For the 5th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest! (almost always the net barley harvested will equal or exceed the amount of fertilizer used)&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are no weeds, only add 1 water.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5) For the 6th tick:&lt;br /&gt;
** If there are weeds, Harvest!&lt;br /&gt;
** If you made it this far with no weeds, Congratulations!, Harvest your 10 barley!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT harvest as soon as you see a weed and try not to get frustrated if you see more weeds appear as you continue. Wait until the 5th tick! The yield will almost always be better if you wait. If the only weed you have is the spindly brown kind, you can make a judgment call whether to continue growing (and just adding water) rather than harvesting prematurely. Very rarely those weeds go away and the barley grows to a complete harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Using Water Only ===&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to raise barley (albeit slowly) with no fertilizer or weedkiller.  Simply plant the barley field, water it to the max level, and keep it fully watered.  Ignore any weeds that appear.  When you see the number of stalks increase, harvest.  You should end up with 2 barley per field (net gain of 1 raw barley) if there are weeds, or 3 barley if weed-free.&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to add that when a new stalk appears, water once more, then harvest on the next water drop, despite weeds you will get 2 barley. (Euripedus)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100567</id>
		<title>Chicken Coop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100567"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:42:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=chicken_coop.jpg|size=15x17|where=[[where::Small Construction Site on grass]]|description=For chickens and eggs.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Source =&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Avian Selection]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To find a Hen Examine Pale Pampas Grass near the shoreline of any body of water. If you succeed, you will get a msg saying you caught a hen. Roosters are harder to catch and can be found by examining Dark Pampas Grass.  (Euripedus)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Cost =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Must be built from a [[Small_Construction_Site|Small Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 600 [[requires::Bricks]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 15 [[requires::Cut Stone]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 60 [[requires::Dried Flax]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Use =&lt;br /&gt;
Chicken Coops house [[produces::Chickens]] (Hens and Rosters), and they can breed and lay [[produces::Eggs]] here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When an egg hatches into a chicken, it leaves behind a [[produces::Crushed Eggshell]] in the coop.  A chicken in a coop can be slaughtered to yield [[produces::Chicken Meat]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chickens eat [[Barley]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From T3:&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens eat about 5 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can keep 20 Hens in a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hens produce 1 egg each per game day. &lt;br /&gt;
* Roosters eat abut 20 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatch 1 Hen (95%) or 1 Rooster (5%) per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can put up to 100 eggs in a coop, but only 20 of them will hatch.&lt;br /&gt;
** If a rooster hatches, you will only get Roosters that day, and usually just one Rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Slats (copied from T3) =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The temperature inside a coop changes from hour to hour, depending largely on the Egyptian day/night cycle.  As chickens thrive best within a certain temperature range, proper maintenance is an important part of raising poultry.  Your tool for regulating temperature is opening and closing the ventilation slats in the coop.  Slats can be fully open, mostly open, half open, slightly open, or closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''open''', the coop gets hotter during the day and cooler at night.&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''closed''', the coop cools off during the day and stays warmer at night.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An additional factor to account for is that some days are warmer than others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Temperature Control ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page describes the optimum temperatures, obtained by adjusting the Chicken Coop Slats, for obtaining Eggs and hatching Hens and Roosters. Stated briefly, each coop changes it's behavior once every 24 hours, at exactly midnight, and the user needs to adjust the ambient air slats to counteract the 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page discusses techniques for achieving a Chicken Coop temperature, at 6:00 AM each morning, that is the most conducive to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens laying Eggs (Warm at 6:10 AM)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Roosters (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM, but only %5 probability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Hens (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Hens will lay eggs and (speculation the eggs will hatch) at any temperature, but your odds are better when the temperature is between 60 and 100 degrees. The temperature during the remainder of the 24 hour period is unimportant, except that you can't let the temperature get so far from nominal that you can't pull it back into the target range by 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will continue to lay eggs if Barley is available and the temperature is comfortable. Roosters don't seems to be required for anything. &amp;lt;== Comment from MarvL So you might as well give your Roosters to Balthazarr for reasearch ;) &amp;lt;== Response from Balthazarr&lt;br /&gt;
  Roosters seem to be required for producing chickens (which you would also expect) - Solaris&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will only lay, and eggs will only hatch, if some hens or some eggs have been in the coop for more than 24 hours. If you're short on Barley, you can add Hens at 5:30 AM and remove them again at 6:30 AM, to conserve Barley. Other than temperature, the program only checks the coops once per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the reported temperatures are not in the 60-100 degree range at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM, you'll need to reset the slats. The thermometer is capped/bottomed at 120/20 degrees, but the Chicken Coop still knows how hot/cold it really is, and the probabilities are based on the real temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Chicken Coops have stalled, it's because the temperatures have gotten so high or so low that you're repeatedly falling outside of the optimum temperature band at 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Characteristics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The temperature of the outside ambient air varies sinusoidally. It is useful to think of the sun as heating up the outside ambient air. The greater the difference between the current coop temperature and the hypothetical ambient air temperature for that time of day, the greater the influence of the slat settings.&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 20 degrees at 6:00 AM&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 120 degrees at 6:00 PM.&lt;br /&gt;
** The dotted line on the graph indicates the ambient temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The user can influence the Chicken Coop temperature by setting the slats to control the amount of ambient air that's admitted.&lt;br /&gt;
** Fully Open Slats allow the ambient air to have full influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Mostly Open Slats allow the ambient air to have 50% influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Half Open Slats remove ambient air from consideration.&lt;br /&gt;
** Slightly Open Slats have the opposite effect of mostly open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Closed Slats have the opposite effect of fully open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note that you will have to reverse the slats at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM to maintain a consistent effect. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Each Chicken Coop has it's own game controlled air conditioning unit that changes at exactly gameday midnight.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hot for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than fully open/closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than mostly open/slightly closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** There is no neutral mode. You should be so lucky.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool for this time of day is the inverse of Warm.&lt;br /&gt;
** Quite Cool for for this time of day is the inverse of Hot. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Coop Conditions ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Chicken Coop conditions change every six hours'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperatures are calculated once every 15 game minutes, and individual Coops are not synchronized.&lt;br /&gt;
** The sun rises at exactly 6:00 AM, and the effect of ambient air switches to warming mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is capped at 120 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 120 degrees, if you're running hot, you'll stay at 120 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The sun sets at exactly 6:00 PM, and the effect of ambient air switches to cooling mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is bottomed at 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 20 degrees, if you're cold, you're running cold, you'll stay at 20 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The profile is vaguely sinusoidal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Midnight is the critical adjustment time, as that's when the time of day driver changes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunrise at 6:00 AM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs are laid and hatched at 6:10 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunset at 6:00 PM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Factors ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''The game controlled driver and the user controlled slats are additive'''&lt;br /&gt;
* We've been monitoring 5 chicken coops, in adjacent locations, and have never seen mixed hot/cool drivers. They seem to be a mix of Quite Cool/Cool or else Warm/Hot. We haven't explored whether coops throughout Egypt behave this way.&lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver seems to be a constant.&lt;br /&gt;
* The effect of the slats depends on the temperature of the ambient air or, more specifically, the temperature differential.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you are close to the ambient temperature, the 24 hour driver will act as an offset.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists around noon and midnight, when the ambient air temperature is always 70 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** If you are way off of the ambient temperature, the slat settings will dominate.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 AM when the ambient air temperature is always 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 PM when the ambient air temperature is always 120 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** There will be a definite knee at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM if you don't reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver and the Slat settings are additive but bounded at a Fully Open or Closed rate of change.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go up any faster than Hot or Fully Open/Closed during the Day/Night.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm plus Mostly Open/Slightly Open during the Day/Night is the same as Hot.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm/Slightly cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night cancel each other.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night is the same at Quite Cool.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go down any faster Quite Cool or Closed/Fully Open during the Day/Night. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General Slat Setting ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Half Open Slats ===&lt;br /&gt;
The following temperature profile was provided by a set of five adjacent Chicken Coops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The movement of these temperature is due entirely to the 24 hour driver. The user controlled flaps were set at neutral, or half open for this test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Balanced Approach ===&lt;br /&gt;
The optimum strategy is to check your Chicken Coops three times per day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shortly after midnight, to respond to the new 24 hour drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just before 6:10 AM to reverse the slat setting. If you switch production modes between all hens or all eggs, you'll lose the next 24 hours of production. There's a 24 hour waiting period when you reconfigure a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just after 6:10 AM to collect the Eggs and/or Hens and to add Barley.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can actually collect them anytime during the next 24 hours, but you'll be too curious to wait.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you have both hens and eggs in a coop, production will stall unless you also have a rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
** If there's no Barley, the Chickens will leave.&lt;br /&gt;
** When eggs hatch you'll also get eggshells. You can leave them in the coop or gather them. It doesn't effect production. &lt;br /&gt;
* Noon doesn't matter, unless your coops have been running cold, and you want to yank the temperatures up a ways.&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 6:00 PM to reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At 6:00 PM we reversed the slats so that they would continue to balance (oppose) the current 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We weren't around at midnight when the 24 hour drivers randomly switched from Cold to Hot. Consequently, the temperature zoomed, but we knew we had plenty of wiggle room.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new hens in coop #T1 were still on a 24 hour production hold, but all of the eligible coops produced eggs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100566</id>
		<title>Chicken Coop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100566"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:41:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=chicken_coop.jpg|size=15x17|where=[[where::Small Construction Site on grass]]|description=For chickens and eggs.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Source =&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Avian Selection]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To find a Hen Examine Pale Pampas Grass near the shoreline of any body of water. If you succeed, you will get a msg saying you caught a hen. Roosters are harder to catch and can be found by examining Dark pampas Grass.  (Euripedus)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Cost =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Must be built from a [[Small_Construction_Site|Small Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 600 [[requires::Bricks]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 15 [[requires::Cut Stone]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 60 [[requires::Dried Flax]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Use =&lt;br /&gt;
Chicken Coops house [[produces::Chickens]] (Hens and Rosters), and they can breed and lay [[produces::Eggs]] here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When an egg hatches into a chicken, it leaves behind a [[produces::Crushed Eggshell]] in the coop.  A chicken in a coop can be slaughtered to yield [[produces::Chicken Meat]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chickens eat [[Barley]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From T3:&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens eat about 5 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can keep 20 Hens in a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hens produce 1 egg each per game day. &lt;br /&gt;
* Roosters eat abut 20 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatch 1 Hen (95%) or 1 Rooster (5%) per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can put up to 100 eggs in a coop, but only 20 of them will hatch.&lt;br /&gt;
** If a rooster hatches, you will only get Roosters that day, and usually just one Rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Slats (copied from T3) =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The temperature inside a coop changes from hour to hour, depending largely on the Egyptian day/night cycle.  As chickens thrive best within a certain temperature range, proper maintenance is an important part of raising poultry.  Your tool for regulating temperature is opening and closing the ventilation slats in the coop.  Slats can be fully open, mostly open, half open, slightly open, or closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''open''', the coop gets hotter during the day and cooler at night.&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''closed''', the coop cools off during the day and stays warmer at night.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An additional factor to account for is that some days are warmer than others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Temperature Control ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page describes the optimum temperatures, obtained by adjusting the Chicken Coop Slats, for obtaining Eggs and hatching Hens and Roosters. Stated briefly, each coop changes it's behavior once every 24 hours, at exactly midnight, and the user needs to adjust the ambient air slats to counteract the 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page discusses techniques for achieving a Chicken Coop temperature, at 6:00 AM each morning, that is the most conducive to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens laying Eggs (Warm at 6:10 AM)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Roosters (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM, but only %5 probability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Hens (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Hens will lay eggs and (speculation the eggs will hatch) at any temperature, but your odds are better when the temperature is between 60 and 100 degrees. The temperature during the remainder of the 24 hour period is unimportant, except that you can't let the temperature get so far from nominal that you can't pull it back into the target range by 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will continue to lay eggs if Barley is available and the temperature is comfortable. Roosters don't seems to be required for anything. &amp;lt;== Comment from MarvL So you might as well give your Roosters to Balthazarr for reasearch ;) &amp;lt;== Response from Balthazarr&lt;br /&gt;
  Roosters seem to be required for producing chickens (which you would also expect) - Solaris&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will only lay, and eggs will only hatch, if some hens or some eggs have been in the coop for more than 24 hours. If you're short on Barley, you can add Hens at 5:30 AM and remove them again at 6:30 AM, to conserve Barley. Other than temperature, the program only checks the coops once per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the reported temperatures are not in the 60-100 degree range at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM, you'll need to reset the slats. The thermometer is capped/bottomed at 120/20 degrees, but the Chicken Coop still knows how hot/cold it really is, and the probabilities are based on the real temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Chicken Coops have stalled, it's because the temperatures have gotten so high or so low that you're repeatedly falling outside of the optimum temperature band at 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Characteristics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The temperature of the outside ambient air varies sinusoidally. It is useful to think of the sun as heating up the outside ambient air. The greater the difference between the current coop temperature and the hypothetical ambient air temperature for that time of day, the greater the influence of the slat settings.&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 20 degrees at 6:00 AM&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 120 degrees at 6:00 PM.&lt;br /&gt;
** The dotted line on the graph indicates the ambient temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The user can influence the Chicken Coop temperature by setting the slats to control the amount of ambient air that's admitted.&lt;br /&gt;
** Fully Open Slats allow the ambient air to have full influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Mostly Open Slats allow the ambient air to have 50% influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Half Open Slats remove ambient air from consideration.&lt;br /&gt;
** Slightly Open Slats have the opposite effect of mostly open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Closed Slats have the opposite effect of fully open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note that you will have to reverse the slats at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM to maintain a consistent effect. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Each Chicken Coop has it's own game controlled air conditioning unit that changes at exactly gameday midnight.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hot for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than fully open/closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than mostly open/slightly closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** There is no neutral mode. You should be so lucky.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool for this time of day is the inverse of Warm.&lt;br /&gt;
** Quite Cool for for this time of day is the inverse of Hot. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Coop Conditions ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Chicken Coop conditions change every six hours'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperatures are calculated once every 15 game minutes, and individual Coops are not synchronized.&lt;br /&gt;
** The sun rises at exactly 6:00 AM, and the effect of ambient air switches to warming mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is capped at 120 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 120 degrees, if you're running hot, you'll stay at 120 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The sun sets at exactly 6:00 PM, and the effect of ambient air switches to cooling mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is bottomed at 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 20 degrees, if you're cold, you're running cold, you'll stay at 20 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The profile is vaguely sinusoidal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Midnight is the critical adjustment time, as that's when the time of day driver changes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunrise at 6:00 AM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs are laid and hatched at 6:10 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunset at 6:00 PM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Factors ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''The game controlled driver and the user controlled slats are additive'''&lt;br /&gt;
* We've been monitoring 5 chicken coops, in adjacent locations, and have never seen mixed hot/cool drivers. They seem to be a mix of Quite Cool/Cool or else Warm/Hot. We haven't explored whether coops throughout Egypt behave this way.&lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver seems to be a constant.&lt;br /&gt;
* The effect of the slats depends on the temperature of the ambient air or, more specifically, the temperature differential.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you are close to the ambient temperature, the 24 hour driver will act as an offset.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists around noon and midnight, when the ambient air temperature is always 70 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** If you are way off of the ambient temperature, the slat settings will dominate.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 AM when the ambient air temperature is always 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 PM when the ambient air temperature is always 120 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** There will be a definite knee at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM if you don't reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver and the Slat settings are additive but bounded at a Fully Open or Closed rate of change.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go up any faster than Hot or Fully Open/Closed during the Day/Night.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm plus Mostly Open/Slightly Open during the Day/Night is the same as Hot.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm/Slightly cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night cancel each other.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night is the same at Quite Cool.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go down any faster Quite Cool or Closed/Fully Open during the Day/Night. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General Slat Setting ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Half Open Slats ===&lt;br /&gt;
The following temperature profile was provided by a set of five adjacent Chicken Coops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The movement of these temperature is due entirely to the 24 hour driver. The user controlled flaps were set at neutral, or half open for this test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Balanced Approach ===&lt;br /&gt;
The optimum strategy is to check your Chicken Coops three times per day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shortly after midnight, to respond to the new 24 hour drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just before 6:10 AM to reverse the slat setting. If you switch production modes between all hens or all eggs, you'll lose the next 24 hours of production. There's a 24 hour waiting period when you reconfigure a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just after 6:10 AM to collect the Eggs and/or Hens and to add Barley.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can actually collect them anytime during the next 24 hours, but you'll be too curious to wait.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you have both hens and eggs in a coop, production will stall unless you also have a rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
** If there's no Barley, the Chickens will leave.&lt;br /&gt;
** When eggs hatch you'll also get eggshells. You can leave them in the coop or gather them. It doesn't effect production. &lt;br /&gt;
* Noon doesn't matter, unless your coops have been running cold, and you want to yank the temperatures up a ways.&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 6:00 PM to reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At 6:00 PM we reversed the slats so that they would continue to balance (oppose) the current 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We weren't around at midnight when the 24 hour drivers randomly switched from Cold to Hot. Consequently, the temperature zoomed, but we knew we had plenty of wiggle room.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new hens in coop #T1 were still on a 24 hour production hold, but all of the eligible coops produced eggs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Chicken_coop.jpg&amp;diff=100565</id>
		<title>File:Chicken coop.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Chicken_coop.jpg&amp;diff=100565"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:39:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: uploaded a new version of &amp;amp;quot;File:Chicken coop.jpg&amp;amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100564</id>
		<title>Chicken Coop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100564"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:39:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=chicken_coop.jpg|320px|size=15x17|where=[[where::Small Construction Site on grass]]|description=For chickens and eggs.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Source =&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Avian Selection]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To find a Hen or Rooster, Examine Pale Pampas Grass near the shoreline of any body of water. If you succeed, you will get a msg saying you caught a hen. Roosters are harder to catch.  (Amanda)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Cost =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Must be built from a [[Small_Construction_Site|Small Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 600 [[requires::Bricks]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 15 [[requires::Cut Stone]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 60 [[requires::Dried Flax]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Use =&lt;br /&gt;
Chicken Coops house [[produces::Chickens]] (Hens and Rosters), and they can breed and lay [[produces::Eggs]] here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When an egg hatches into a chicken, it leaves behind a [[produces::Crushed Eggshell]] in the coop.  A chicken in a coop can be slaughtered to yield [[produces::Chicken Meat]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chickens eat [[Barley]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From T3:&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens eat about 5 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can keep 20 Hens in a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hens produce 1 egg each per game day. &lt;br /&gt;
* Roosters eat abut 20 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatch 1 Hen (95%) or 1 Rooster (5%) per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can put up to 100 eggs in a coop, but only 20 of them will hatch.&lt;br /&gt;
** If a rooster hatches, you will only get Roosters that day, and usually just one Rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Slats (copied from T3) =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The temperature inside a coop changes from hour to hour, depending largely on the Egyptian day/night cycle.  As chickens thrive best within a certain temperature range, proper maintenance is an important part of raising poultry.  Your tool for regulating temperature is opening and closing the ventilation slats in the coop.  Slats can be fully open, mostly open, half open, slightly open, or closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''open''', the coop gets hotter during the day and cooler at night.&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''closed''', the coop cools off during the day and stays warmer at night.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An additional factor to account for is that some days are warmer than others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Temperature Control ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page describes the optimum temperatures, obtained by adjusting the Chicken Coop Slats, for obtaining Eggs and hatching Hens and Roosters. Stated briefly, each coop changes it's behavior once every 24 hours, at exactly midnight, and the user needs to adjust the ambient air slats to counteract the 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page discusses techniques for achieving a Chicken Coop temperature, at 6:00 AM each morning, that is the most conducive to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens laying Eggs (Warm at 6:10 AM)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Roosters (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM, but only %5 probability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Hens (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Hens will lay eggs and (speculation the eggs will hatch) at any temperature, but your odds are better when the temperature is between 60 and 100 degrees. The temperature during the remainder of the 24 hour period is unimportant, except that you can't let the temperature get so far from nominal that you can't pull it back into the target range by 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will continue to lay eggs if Barley is available and the temperature is comfortable. Roosters don't seems to be required for anything. &amp;lt;== Comment from MarvL So you might as well give your Roosters to Balthazarr for reasearch ;) &amp;lt;== Response from Balthazarr&lt;br /&gt;
  Roosters seem to be required for producing chickens (which you would also expect) - Solaris&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will only lay, and eggs will only hatch, if some hens or some eggs have been in the coop for more than 24 hours. If you're short on Barley, you can add Hens at 5:30 AM and remove them again at 6:30 AM, to conserve Barley. Other than temperature, the program only checks the coops once per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the reported temperatures are not in the 60-100 degree range at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM, you'll need to reset the slats. The thermometer is capped/bottomed at 120/20 degrees, but the Chicken Coop still knows how hot/cold it really is, and the probabilities are based on the real temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Chicken Coops have stalled, it's because the temperatures have gotten so high or so low that you're repeatedly falling outside of the optimum temperature band at 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Characteristics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The temperature of the outside ambient air varies sinusoidally. It is useful to think of the sun as heating up the outside ambient air. The greater the difference between the current coop temperature and the hypothetical ambient air temperature for that time of day, the greater the influence of the slat settings.&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 20 degrees at 6:00 AM&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 120 degrees at 6:00 PM.&lt;br /&gt;
** The dotted line on the graph indicates the ambient temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The user can influence the Chicken Coop temperature by setting the slats to control the amount of ambient air that's admitted.&lt;br /&gt;
** Fully Open Slats allow the ambient air to have full influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Mostly Open Slats allow the ambient air to have 50% influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Half Open Slats remove ambient air from consideration.&lt;br /&gt;
** Slightly Open Slats have the opposite effect of mostly open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Closed Slats have the opposite effect of fully open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note that you will have to reverse the slats at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM to maintain a consistent effect. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Each Chicken Coop has it's own game controlled air conditioning unit that changes at exactly gameday midnight.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hot for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than fully open/closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than mostly open/slightly closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** There is no neutral mode. You should be so lucky.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool for this time of day is the inverse of Warm.&lt;br /&gt;
** Quite Cool for for this time of day is the inverse of Hot. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Coop Conditions ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Chicken Coop conditions change every six hours'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperatures are calculated once every 15 game minutes, and individual Coops are not synchronized.&lt;br /&gt;
** The sun rises at exactly 6:00 AM, and the effect of ambient air switches to warming mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is capped at 120 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 120 degrees, if you're running hot, you'll stay at 120 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The sun sets at exactly 6:00 PM, and the effect of ambient air switches to cooling mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is bottomed at 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 20 degrees, if you're cold, you're running cold, you'll stay at 20 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The profile is vaguely sinusoidal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Midnight is the critical adjustment time, as that's when the time of day driver changes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunrise at 6:00 AM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs are laid and hatched at 6:10 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunset at 6:00 PM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Factors ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''The game controlled driver and the user controlled slats are additive'''&lt;br /&gt;
* We've been monitoring 5 chicken coops, in adjacent locations, and have never seen mixed hot/cool drivers. They seem to be a mix of Quite Cool/Cool or else Warm/Hot. We haven't explored whether coops throughout Egypt behave this way.&lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver seems to be a constant.&lt;br /&gt;
* The effect of the slats depends on the temperature of the ambient air or, more specifically, the temperature differential.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you are close to the ambient temperature, the 24 hour driver will act as an offset.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists around noon and midnight, when the ambient air temperature is always 70 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** If you are way off of the ambient temperature, the slat settings will dominate.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 AM when the ambient air temperature is always 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 PM when the ambient air temperature is always 120 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** There will be a definite knee at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM if you don't reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver and the Slat settings are additive but bounded at a Fully Open or Closed rate of change.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go up any faster than Hot or Fully Open/Closed during the Day/Night.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm plus Mostly Open/Slightly Open during the Day/Night is the same as Hot.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm/Slightly cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night cancel each other.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night is the same at Quite Cool.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go down any faster Quite Cool or Closed/Fully Open during the Day/Night. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General Slat Setting ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Half Open Slats ===&lt;br /&gt;
The following temperature profile was provided by a set of five adjacent Chicken Coops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The movement of these temperature is due entirely to the 24 hour driver. The user controlled flaps were set at neutral, or half open for this test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Balanced Approach ===&lt;br /&gt;
The optimum strategy is to check your Chicken Coops three times per day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shortly after midnight, to respond to the new 24 hour drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just before 6:10 AM to reverse the slat setting. If you switch production modes between all hens or all eggs, you'll lose the next 24 hours of production. There's a 24 hour waiting period when you reconfigure a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just after 6:10 AM to collect the Eggs and/or Hens and to add Barley.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can actually collect them anytime during the next 24 hours, but you'll be too curious to wait.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you have both hens and eggs in a coop, production will stall unless you also have a rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
** If there's no Barley, the Chickens will leave.&lt;br /&gt;
** When eggs hatch you'll also get eggshells. You can leave them in the coop or gather them. It doesn't effect production. &lt;br /&gt;
* Noon doesn't matter, unless your coops have been running cold, and you want to yank the temperatures up a ways.&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 6:00 PM to reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At 6:00 PM we reversed the slats so that they would continue to balance (oppose) the current 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We weren't around at midnight when the 24 hour drivers randomly switched from Cold to Hot. Consequently, the temperature zoomed, but we knew we had plenty of wiggle room.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new hens in coop #T1 were still on a 24 hour production hold, but all of the eligible coops produced eggs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100563</id>
		<title>Chicken Coop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100563"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:34:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=chicken_coop.jpg|320x240|size=15x17|where=[[where::Small Construction Site on grass]]|description=For chickens and eggs.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Source =&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Avian Selection]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To find a Hen or Rooster, Examine Pale Pampas Grass near the shoreline of any body of water. If you succeed, you will get a msg saying you caught a hen. Roosters are harder to catch.  (Amanda)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Cost =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Must be built from a [[Small_Construction_Site|Small Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 600 [[requires::Bricks]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 15 [[requires::Cut Stone]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 60 [[requires::Dried Flax]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Use =&lt;br /&gt;
Chicken Coops house [[produces::Chickens]] (Hens and Rosters), and they can breed and lay [[produces::Eggs]] here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When an egg hatches into a chicken, it leaves behind a [[produces::Crushed Eggshell]] in the coop.  A chicken in a coop can be slaughtered to yield [[produces::Chicken Meat]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chickens eat [[Barley]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From T3:&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens eat about 5 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can keep 20 Hens in a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hens produce 1 egg each per game day. &lt;br /&gt;
* Roosters eat abut 20 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatch 1 Hen (95%) or 1 Rooster (5%) per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can put up to 100 eggs in a coop, but only 20 of them will hatch.&lt;br /&gt;
** If a rooster hatches, you will only get Roosters that day, and usually just one Rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Slats (copied from T3) =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The temperature inside a coop changes from hour to hour, depending largely on the Egyptian day/night cycle.  As chickens thrive best within a certain temperature range, proper maintenance is an important part of raising poultry.  Your tool for regulating temperature is opening and closing the ventilation slats in the coop.  Slats can be fully open, mostly open, half open, slightly open, or closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''open''', the coop gets hotter during the day and cooler at night.&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''closed''', the coop cools off during the day and stays warmer at night.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An additional factor to account for is that some days are warmer than others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Temperature Control ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page describes the optimum temperatures, obtained by adjusting the Chicken Coop Slats, for obtaining Eggs and hatching Hens and Roosters. Stated briefly, each coop changes it's behavior once every 24 hours, at exactly midnight, and the user needs to adjust the ambient air slats to counteract the 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page discusses techniques for achieving a Chicken Coop temperature, at 6:00 AM each morning, that is the most conducive to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens laying Eggs (Warm at 6:10 AM)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Roosters (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM, but only %5 probability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Hens (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Hens will lay eggs and (speculation the eggs will hatch) at any temperature, but your odds are better when the temperature is between 60 and 100 degrees. The temperature during the remainder of the 24 hour period is unimportant, except that you can't let the temperature get so far from nominal that you can't pull it back into the target range by 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will continue to lay eggs if Barley is available and the temperature is comfortable. Roosters don't seems to be required for anything. &amp;lt;== Comment from MarvL So you might as well give your Roosters to Balthazarr for reasearch ;) &amp;lt;== Response from Balthazarr&lt;br /&gt;
  Roosters seem to be required for producing chickens (which you would also expect) - Solaris&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will only lay, and eggs will only hatch, if some hens or some eggs have been in the coop for more than 24 hours. If you're short on Barley, you can add Hens at 5:30 AM and remove them again at 6:30 AM, to conserve Barley. Other than temperature, the program only checks the coops once per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the reported temperatures are not in the 60-100 degree range at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM, you'll need to reset the slats. The thermometer is capped/bottomed at 120/20 degrees, but the Chicken Coop still knows how hot/cold it really is, and the probabilities are based on the real temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Chicken Coops have stalled, it's because the temperatures have gotten so high or so low that you're repeatedly falling outside of the optimum temperature band at 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Characteristics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The temperature of the outside ambient air varies sinusoidally. It is useful to think of the sun as heating up the outside ambient air. The greater the difference between the current coop temperature and the hypothetical ambient air temperature for that time of day, the greater the influence of the slat settings.&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 20 degrees at 6:00 AM&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 120 degrees at 6:00 PM.&lt;br /&gt;
** The dotted line on the graph indicates the ambient temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The user can influence the Chicken Coop temperature by setting the slats to control the amount of ambient air that's admitted.&lt;br /&gt;
** Fully Open Slats allow the ambient air to have full influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Mostly Open Slats allow the ambient air to have 50% influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Half Open Slats remove ambient air from consideration.&lt;br /&gt;
** Slightly Open Slats have the opposite effect of mostly open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Closed Slats have the opposite effect of fully open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note that you will have to reverse the slats at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM to maintain a consistent effect. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Each Chicken Coop has it's own game controlled air conditioning unit that changes at exactly gameday midnight.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hot for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than fully open/closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than mostly open/slightly closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** There is no neutral mode. You should be so lucky.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool for this time of day is the inverse of Warm.&lt;br /&gt;
** Quite Cool for for this time of day is the inverse of Hot. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Coop Conditions ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Chicken Coop conditions change every six hours'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperatures are calculated once every 15 game minutes, and individual Coops are not synchronized.&lt;br /&gt;
** The sun rises at exactly 6:00 AM, and the effect of ambient air switches to warming mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is capped at 120 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 120 degrees, if you're running hot, you'll stay at 120 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The sun sets at exactly 6:00 PM, and the effect of ambient air switches to cooling mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is bottomed at 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 20 degrees, if you're cold, you're running cold, you'll stay at 20 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The profile is vaguely sinusoidal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Midnight is the critical adjustment time, as that's when the time of day driver changes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunrise at 6:00 AM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs are laid and hatched at 6:10 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunset at 6:00 PM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Factors ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''The game controlled driver and the user controlled slats are additive'''&lt;br /&gt;
* We've been monitoring 5 chicken coops, in adjacent locations, and have never seen mixed hot/cool drivers. They seem to be a mix of Quite Cool/Cool or else Warm/Hot. We haven't explored whether coops throughout Egypt behave this way.&lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver seems to be a constant.&lt;br /&gt;
* The effect of the slats depends on the temperature of the ambient air or, more specifically, the temperature differential.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you are close to the ambient temperature, the 24 hour driver will act as an offset.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists around noon and midnight, when the ambient air temperature is always 70 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** If you are way off of the ambient temperature, the slat settings will dominate.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 AM when the ambient air temperature is always 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 PM when the ambient air temperature is always 120 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** There will be a definite knee at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM if you don't reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver and the Slat settings are additive but bounded at a Fully Open or Closed rate of change.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go up any faster than Hot or Fully Open/Closed during the Day/Night.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm plus Mostly Open/Slightly Open during the Day/Night is the same as Hot.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm/Slightly cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night cancel each other.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night is the same at Quite Cool.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go down any faster Quite Cool or Closed/Fully Open during the Day/Night. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General Slat Setting ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Half Open Slats ===&lt;br /&gt;
The following temperature profile was provided by a set of five adjacent Chicken Coops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The movement of these temperature is due entirely to the 24 hour driver. The user controlled flaps were set at neutral, or half open for this test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Balanced Approach ===&lt;br /&gt;
The optimum strategy is to check your Chicken Coops three times per day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shortly after midnight, to respond to the new 24 hour drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just before 6:10 AM to reverse the slat setting. If you switch production modes between all hens or all eggs, you'll lose the next 24 hours of production. There's a 24 hour waiting period when you reconfigure a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just after 6:10 AM to collect the Eggs and/or Hens and to add Barley.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can actually collect them anytime during the next 24 hours, but you'll be too curious to wait.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you have both hens and eggs in a coop, production will stall unless you also have a rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
** If there's no Barley, the Chickens will leave.&lt;br /&gt;
** When eggs hatch you'll also get eggshells. You can leave them in the coop or gather them. It doesn't effect production. &lt;br /&gt;
* Noon doesn't matter, unless your coops have been running cold, and you want to yank the temperatures up a ways.&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 6:00 PM to reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At 6:00 PM we reversed the slats so that they would continue to balance (oppose) the current 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We weren't around at midnight when the 24 hour drivers randomly switched from Cold to Hot. Consequently, the temperature zoomed, but we knew we had plenty of wiggle room.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new hens in coop #T1 were still on a 24 hour production hold, but all of the eligible coops produced eggs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Chicken_coop.jpg&amp;diff=100562</id>
		<title>File:Chicken coop.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Chicken_coop.jpg&amp;diff=100562"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:33:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100561</id>
		<title>Chicken Coop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Chicken_Coop&amp;diff=100561"/>
		<updated>2011-05-31T22:32:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=chicken_coop.jpg|size=15x17|where=[[where::Small Construction Site on grass]]|description=For chickens and eggs.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Source =&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Avian Selection]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To find a Hen or Rooster, Examine Pale Pampas Grass near the shoreline of any body of water. If you succeed, you will get a msg saying you caught a hen. Roosters are harder to catch.  (Amanda)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Cost =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Must be built from a [[Small_Construction_Site|Small Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 600 [[requires::Bricks]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 15 [[requires::Cut Stone]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 60 [[requires::Dried Flax]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Use =&lt;br /&gt;
Chicken Coops house [[produces::Chickens]] (Hens and Rosters), and they can breed and lay [[produces::Eggs]] here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When an egg hatches into a chicken, it leaves behind a [[produces::Crushed Eggshell]] in the coop.  A chicken in a coop can be slaughtered to yield [[produces::Chicken Meat]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chickens eat [[Barley]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From T3:&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens eat about 5 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can keep 20 Hens in a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hens produce 1 egg each per game day. &lt;br /&gt;
* Roosters eat abut 20 Barley each per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatch 1 Hen (95%) or 1 Rooster (5%) per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can put up to 100 eggs in a coop, but only 20 of them will hatch.&lt;br /&gt;
** If a rooster hatches, you will only get Roosters that day, and usually just one Rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Slats (copied from T3) =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The temperature inside a coop changes from hour to hour, depending largely on the Egyptian day/night cycle.  As chickens thrive best within a certain temperature range, proper maintenance is an important part of raising poultry.  Your tool for regulating temperature is opening and closing the ventilation slats in the coop.  Slats can be fully open, mostly open, half open, slightly open, or closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''open''', the coop gets hotter during the day and cooler at night.&lt;br /&gt;
* When the slats are '''closed''', the coop cools off during the day and stays warmer at night.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An additional factor to account for is that some days are warmer than others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Temperature Control ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page describes the optimum temperatures, obtained by adjusting the Chicken Coop Slats, for obtaining Eggs and hatching Hens and Roosters. Stated briefly, each coop changes it's behavior once every 24 hours, at exactly midnight, and the user needs to adjust the ambient air slats to counteract the 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page discusses techniques for achieving a Chicken Coop temperature, at 6:00 AM each morning, that is the most conducive to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hens laying Eggs (Warm at 6:10 AM)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Roosters (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM, but only %5 probability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs hatching to Hens (Speculation - Warm at 6:10 AM) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Hens will lay eggs and (speculation the eggs will hatch) at any temperature, but your odds are better when the temperature is between 60 and 100 degrees. The temperature during the remainder of the 24 hour period is unimportant, except that you can't let the temperature get so far from nominal that you can't pull it back into the target range by 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will continue to lay eggs if Barley is available and the temperature is comfortable. Roosters don't seems to be required for anything. &amp;lt;== Comment from MarvL So you might as well give your Roosters to Balthazarr for reasearch ;) &amp;lt;== Response from Balthazarr&lt;br /&gt;
  Roosters seem to be required for producing chickens (which you would also expect) - Solaris&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hens will only lay, and eggs will only hatch, if some hens or some eggs have been in the coop for more than 24 hours. If you're short on Barley, you can add Hens at 5:30 AM and remove them again at 6:30 AM, to conserve Barley. Other than temperature, the program only checks the coops once per game day.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the reported temperatures are not in the 60-100 degree range at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM, you'll need to reset the slats. The thermometer is capped/bottomed at 120/20 degrees, but the Chicken Coop still knows how hot/cold it really is, and the probabilities are based on the real temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Chicken Coops have stalled, it's because the temperatures have gotten so high or so low that you're repeatedly falling outside of the optimum temperature band at 6:00 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Chicken Coop Characteristics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The temperature of the outside ambient air varies sinusoidally. It is useful to think of the sun as heating up the outside ambient air. The greater the difference between the current coop temperature and the hypothetical ambient air temperature for that time of day, the greater the influence of the slat settings.&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 20 degrees at 6:00 AM&lt;br /&gt;
** The ambient air temperature is 120 degrees at 6:00 PM.&lt;br /&gt;
** The dotted line on the graph indicates the ambient temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The user can influence the Chicken Coop temperature by setting the slats to control the amount of ambient air that's admitted.&lt;br /&gt;
** Fully Open Slats allow the ambient air to have full influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Mostly Open Slats allow the ambient air to have 50% influence.&lt;br /&gt;
** Half Open Slats remove ambient air from consideration.&lt;br /&gt;
** Slightly Open Slats have the opposite effect of mostly open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Closed Slats have the opposite effect of fully open slats, who knows how.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note that you will have to reverse the slats at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM to maintain a consistent effect. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Each Chicken Coop has it's own game controlled air conditioning unit that changes at exactly gameday midnight.&lt;br /&gt;
** Hot for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than fully open/closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm for this time of day will drive the temperature up for the next 24 hours, but more slowly than mostly open/slightly closed slats.&lt;br /&gt;
** There is no neutral mode. You should be so lucky.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool for this time of day is the inverse of Warm.&lt;br /&gt;
** Quite Cool for for this time of day is the inverse of Hot. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Coop Conditions ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Chicken Coop conditions change every six hours'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperatures are calculated once every 15 game minutes, and individual Coops are not synchronized.&lt;br /&gt;
** The sun rises at exactly 6:00 AM, and the effect of ambient air switches to warming mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is capped at 120 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 120 degrees, if you're running hot, you'll stay at 120 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The sun sets at exactly 6:00 PM, and the effect of ambient air switches to cooling mode.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature is bottomed at 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The temperature doesn't reset to 20 degrees, if you're cold, you're running cold, you'll stay at 20 degrees for longer. &lt;br /&gt;
** The profile is vaguely sinusoidal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Midnight is the critical adjustment time, as that's when the time of day driver changes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunrise at 6:00 AM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggs are laid and hatched at 6:10 AM.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sunset at 6:00 PM causes the effect of ambient air, and therefore the appropriate slat position, to reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Factors ==&lt;br /&gt;
'''The game controlled driver and the user controlled slats are additive'''&lt;br /&gt;
* We've been monitoring 5 chicken coops, in adjacent locations, and have never seen mixed hot/cool drivers. They seem to be a mix of Quite Cool/Cool or else Warm/Hot. We haven't explored whether coops throughout Egypt behave this way.&lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver seems to be a constant.&lt;br /&gt;
* The effect of the slats depends on the temperature of the ambient air or, more specifically, the temperature differential.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you are close to the ambient temperature, the 24 hour driver will act as an offset.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists around noon and midnight, when the ambient air temperature is always 70 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** If you are way off of the ambient temperature, the slat settings will dominate.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 AM when the ambient air temperature is always 20 degrees.&lt;br /&gt;
*** This condition usually exists at 6:00 PM when the ambient air temperature is always 120 degrees. &lt;br /&gt;
** There will be a definite knee at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM if you don't reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
* The 24 hour driver and the Slat settings are additive but bounded at a Fully Open or Closed rate of change.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go up any faster than Hot or Fully Open/Closed during the Day/Night.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm plus Mostly Open/Slightly Open during the Day/Night is the same as Hot.&lt;br /&gt;
** Warm/Slightly cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night cancel each other.&lt;br /&gt;
** Cool plus Slightly Open/Mostly Open during the Day/Night is the same at Quite Cool.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can't go down any faster Quite Cool or Closed/Fully Open during the Day/Night. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General Slat Setting ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Half Open Slats ===&lt;br /&gt;
The following temperature profile was provided by a set of five adjacent Chicken Coops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The movement of these temperature is due entirely to the 24 hour driver. The user controlled flaps were set at neutral, or half open for this test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Balanced Approach ===&lt;br /&gt;
The optimum strategy is to check your Chicken Coops three times per day.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shortly after midnight, to respond to the new 24 hour drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just before 6:10 AM to reverse the slat setting. If you switch production modes between all hens or all eggs, you'll lose the next 24 hours of production. There's a 24 hour waiting period when you reconfigure a coop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Just after 6:10 AM to collect the Eggs and/or Hens and to add Barley.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can actually collect them anytime during the next 24 hours, but you'll be too curious to wait.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you have both hens and eggs in a coop, production will stall unless you also have a rooster.&lt;br /&gt;
** If there's no Barley, the Chickens will leave.&lt;br /&gt;
** When eggs hatch you'll also get eggshells. You can leave them in the coop or gather them. It doesn't effect production. &lt;br /&gt;
* Noon doesn't matter, unless your coops have been running cold, and you want to yank the temperatures up a ways.&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 6:00 PM to reverse the slat settings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At 6:00 PM we reversed the slats so that they would continue to balance (oppose) the current 24 hour driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We weren't around at midnight when the 24 hour drivers randomly switched from Cold to Hot. Consequently, the temperature zoomed, but we knew we had plenty of wiggle room.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new hens in coop #T1 were still on a 24 hour production hold, but all of the eligible coops produced eggs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Claylamp.jpg&amp;diff=100329</id>
		<title>File:Claylamp.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Claylamp.jpg&amp;diff=100329"/>
		<updated>2011-05-29T21:11:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Clay_Lamp&amp;diff=100327</id>
		<title>Clay Lamp</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Clay_Lamp&amp;diff=100327"/>
		<updated>2011-05-29T21:11:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:ItemInfo|weight=1|bulk=1|image=claylamp.jpg|description=Clay Lamp}} &lt;br /&gt;
It looks like a little smaller jug.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Source==&lt;br /&gt;
1 [[requires::Jugs]]&lt;br /&gt;
20 [[requires::Oil]]&lt;br /&gt;
1 [[requires::Rope]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Note==&lt;br /&gt;
Built under the Skills-&amp;gt;Assembly menu. Requires the [[Pottery|Pottery]] Skill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{RequiredBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{ProducedBy}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Resources]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
---&lt;br /&gt;
{{Languages}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Wool_cloth&amp;diff=100325</id>
		<title>Wool cloth</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Wool_cloth&amp;diff=100325"/>
		<updated>2011-05-29T20:56:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Information on wool cloth.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
60 cubits wool = 1 wool cloth on Student/Hand Loom&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Deep_Well&amp;diff=100240</id>
		<title>Deep Well</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Deep_Well&amp;diff=100240"/>
		<updated>2011-05-29T04:13:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: /* Use */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=DeepWell2.png|size=n/a|where=[[where::Medium Construction Site]]&lt;br /&gt;
|description=For extracting petroleum from deep in the earth.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available once you have learned the [[Deep Well Construction]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
{{5ok}}&lt;br /&gt;
* 200 [[requires::Rope]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 400 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 300 [[requires::Nails]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 20 [[requires::Screw Gear]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 500 [[requires::Oil]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 2000 [[requires::Leather]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Medium Construction Site]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of a Deep Well is similar both to an [[Aqueduct Pump]] or a [[Barrel Grinder]]. The Deep Well has a &amp;quot;Wind the well spring&amp;quot; option, which involves END and STR.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The END represents how long you have to wait before doing it again. Base timer is 180 seconds.&lt;br /&gt;
* The STR represents how much Spring Tension is added. This is calculated at (STR + 1) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Deep Well can be wound providing the spring tension is below 100. &lt;br /&gt;
* This is not the maximum - if you have 25 STR, and the Spring Tension is 99, this will give you 125 Spring Tension. &lt;br /&gt;
* Attempting to wind the spring when the Spring Tension is 100 or more will generate the message &amp;quot;The well spring is as tight as you can get it&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After winding, each minute (more like 75 seconds) will...&lt;br /&gt;
* Increase the Deep Well inventory by 6 [[produces::Petroleum]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Increase the Water Level by between 4 and 6&lt;br /&gt;
* Increase the Depth by 1&lt;br /&gt;
* Decrease the Spring Tension by 1. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once it reaches a Spring Tension of 0, the Deep Well will &amp;quot;break&amp;quot;, and needs to be repaired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By this, the keen observer will notice that just str 2 should be sufficient to keep it going. So even a peasant could drink from a aqua tower, and do all the petroleum they wants. Higher end/str just makes it more pleasant.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
=== Repair Cost ===&lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Leather]] &lt;br /&gt;
* 50 [[Oil]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See note on discussion page. -Peshet&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Public Deep Wells ==&lt;br /&gt;
Because Deep Wells are large community projects, they are often set &amp;quot;public&amp;quot; for anyone to use. Expect the well to need repair when you arrive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Sinai_Projects|Sinai Projects]] Public Deep Well @ 2791, 4810&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_Tasting_Table&amp;diff=99431</id>
		<title>Ceremonial Tasting Table</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_Tasting_Table&amp;diff=99431"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:56:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=Tastingtable01.jpg|size=13x6|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used for drinking wine and beer.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Carpentry]] skill.  &lt;br /&gt;
''(Note: With Carpentry skill, this item is still not buildable, suggesting a requirement for something else as well)''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 6 [[requires::Oyster Shell Marble]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 20 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 13x6 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Upgrades'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Install [[Wine Glass]]es.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
For sampling [[Wine]] and [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Glass Layout'''&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CTT_GlassLayout.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Tastingtable01.jpg&amp;diff=99430</id>
		<title>File:Tastingtable01.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Tastingtable01.jpg&amp;diff=99430"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:55:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_Tasting_Table&amp;diff=99429</id>
		<title>Ceremonial Tasting Table</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_Tasting_Table&amp;diff=99429"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:54:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=Tastingtable01.jpg|size=14x14|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used for drinking wine and beer.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available after you have learned the [[requires::Carpentry]] skill.  &lt;br /&gt;
''(Note: With Carpentry skill, this item is still not buildable, suggesting a requirement for something else as well)''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 6 [[requires::Oyster Shell Marble]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 20 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 13x6 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Upgrades'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Install [[Wine Glass]]es.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
For sampling [[Wine]] and [[Beer]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Glass Layout'''&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CTT_GlassLayout.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Anvil&amp;diff=99420</id>
		<title>Anvil</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Anvil&amp;diff=99420"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:22:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{T4}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=Anvil5.jpg|size=7x3|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used for the smithing of various tools. }}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Overview==&lt;br /&gt;
Used for creating various hammered metal products.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Source==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available to be built after the [[Advanced Blacksmithing]] technology is learned at a [[University of Art &amp;amp; Music]]. (But an anvil can be operated with only the [[Blacksmithing]] tech).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cost==&lt;br /&gt;
*1 [[requires::Anvil Bed]] &lt;br /&gt;
*120 [[requires::Firebricks]] &lt;br /&gt;
*4 [[requires::Water in Jugs ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 7x13 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tip: Build your anvil facing east to west instead of north to south because it will be much easier to work materials on the anvil using cartographer's camera from the camera options menu. The front of the anvil needs to face south. If it is facing the wrong direction, make sure you have salvage techniques and then tear it down and rebuild the anvil till you get it right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Use==&lt;br /&gt;
An anvil is used to create various metal tools by shaping a block of metal into a specific pattern. Using an anvil requires the [[Blacksmithing]] tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This uses various smithing tools, each with a different pattern in pushing metal:&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ball Peen Hammer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Round Hammer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Shaping Mallet]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Wide Tungsten Chisel]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The finished products are assigned a quality based on how close they are to the goal. The higher the quality, the more effective the tool, with 9999 being perfect. An anvil can produce the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Shovel]] - 10 metal; 4 wood to complete; require 6000+ to be effective&lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Carpentry Blade]] - 1 metal; requires quality 3000+ to be used &lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Tools#Hatchet|Hatchet]] - 20 metal &lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Tools#Resin Wedge|Resin Wedge]] - 7 metal &lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Sharp Edged Knife Blade]] - 10 metal&lt;br /&gt;
*[[produces::Spring]] - 1 metal&lt;br /&gt;
from any of the following metals, with stronger metals allowing more hits before the piece becomes too fragile to work. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Copper]] - 160 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Iron]] - 180 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Brass]] - 200 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Bronze]] - 210 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Steel]] - 220 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Sun Steel]] - 240 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Moon Steel]] - 250 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Thoth's Metal]] - 260 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Water Metal]] - 250 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Metal Blue]] - 280 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
*[[Octec's Alloy]] - 320 hit limit &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For details on technique, please check out the [[Blacksmithing Guide]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{MetalworkNav | Buildings}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Anvil5.jpg&amp;diff=99419</id>
		<title>File:Anvil5.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:Anvil5.jpg&amp;diff=99419"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:22:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99418</id>
		<title>Star Rack</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99418"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:18:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=StarRack.jpg|size=7x7|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used to create pyrotechnic stars.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Star Rack is where you craft [[Star Recipes | Stars]] for Pyrotechnics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available once you have started the [[Test of Pyrotechnics]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 40 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Copper Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Canvas]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 7x7 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
The star rack is used to create batches of a specific pyrotechnics star. You must have learned the specific recipe from a University of Art &amp;amp; Music to see the option to create those stars on the rack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The minimum batch size to avoid rounding of ingredients appears to be '''10'''.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* See the [[Star Recipes]] page for costs of specific stars and where their recipes may be learned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drying times===&lt;br /&gt;
The stars will dry at a rate of one star every 30 teppySeconds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you make 1 star, it will take 30 teppySeconds. If you make 4 qty, then it will be 2 TeppyMinutes, and so on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You cannot remove stars while there are some in the batch still drying.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:StarRack.jpg&amp;diff=99415</id>
		<title>File:StarRack.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:StarRack.jpg&amp;diff=99415"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:16:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: uploaded a new version of &amp;amp;quot;File:StarRack.jpg&amp;amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99413</id>
		<title>Star Rack</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99413"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:11:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=StarRack.jpg|220px|size=7x7|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used to create pyrotechnic stars.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Star Rack is where you craft [[Star Recipes | Stars]] for Pyrotechnics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available once you have started the [[Test of Pyrotechnics]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 40 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Copper Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Canvas]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 7x7 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
The star rack is used to create batches of a specific pyrotechnics star. You must have learned the specific recipe from a University of Art &amp;amp; Music to see the option to create those stars on the rack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The minimum batch size to avoid rounding of ingredients appears to be '''10'''.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* See the [[Star Recipes]] page for costs of specific stars and where their recipes may be learned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drying times===&lt;br /&gt;
The stars will dry at a rate of one star every 30 teppySeconds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you make 1 star, it will take 30 teppySeconds. If you make 4 qty, then it will be 2 TeppyMinutes, and so on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You cannot remove stars while there are some in the batch still drying.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99412</id>
		<title>Star Rack</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99412"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:03:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=StarRack.jpg|thumb|100px|size=7x7|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used to create pyrotechnic stars.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Star Rack is where you craft [[Star Recipes | Stars]] for Pyrotechnics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available once you have started the [[Test of Pyrotechnics]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 40 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Copper Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Canvas]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 7x7 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
The star rack is used to create batches of a specific pyrotechnics star. You must have learned the specific recipe from a University of Art &amp;amp; Music to see the option to create those stars on the rack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The minimum batch size to avoid rounding of ingredients appears to be '''10'''.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* See the [[Star Recipes]] page for costs of specific stars and where their recipes may be learned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drying times===&lt;br /&gt;
The stars will dry at a rate of one star every 30 teppySeconds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you make 1 star, it will take 30 teppySeconds. If you make 4 qty, then it will be 2 TeppyMinutes, and so on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You cannot remove stars while there are some in the batch still drying.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99411</id>
		<title>Star Rack</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=Star_Rack&amp;diff=99411"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T09:00:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{t4}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BuildingInfo|image=StarRack.jpg|size=7x7|where=[[where::Compound]]|description=Used to create pyrotechnic stars.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Star Rack is where you craft [[Star Recipes | Stars]] for Pyrotechnics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Source ==&lt;br /&gt;
This building becomes available once you have started the [[Test of Pyrotechnics]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cost ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 40 [[requires::Boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Copper Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 [[requires::Canvas]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Built in a [[Compound]]. Uses 7x7 cells.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Use ==&lt;br /&gt;
The star rack is used to create batches of a specific pyrotechnics star. You must have learned the specific recipe from a University of Art &amp;amp; Music to see the option to create those stars on the rack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The minimum batch size to avoid rounding of ingredients appears to be '''10'''.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* See the [[Star Recipes]] page for costs of specific stars and where their recipes may be learned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drying times===&lt;br /&gt;
The stars will dry at a rate of one star every 30 teppySeconds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you make 1 star, it will take 30 teppySeconds. If you make 4 qty, then it will be 2 TeppyMinutes, and so on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You cannot remove stars while there are some in the batch still drying.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Buildings]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:StarRack.jpg&amp;diff=99410</id>
		<title>File:StarRack.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.atitd.org/wiki/t5w/index.php?title=File:StarRack.jpg&amp;diff=99410"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T08:59:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Euripedus: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Euripedus</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>