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Difference between revisions of "User:Sunstrider/Smithing Guide"

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= General Information =
 
= General Information =
  
Ok my first guide itself: I will not start from here ZERO, then at least the basics very rough even know you ... For example, that better parent metal increases the number of beats or what is the goal at all or how to achieve it (by 'simple' move the metal)
+
Ok my first guide itself: I will not start from here ZERO, you should know the very basics already... Like 'higher' metal increases the number of blows or what is the goal at all or how to achieve it (by 'simple' move the metal)
  
Here first some 'advanced' foundations follow for forging. That with the pattern we have very quickly out to deal with the tools may well need it, but of understanding and practice. The understanding of the tools builds much on the child model.
+
Here first some 'advanced' foundations follow for forging. Understanding the pattern is pretty simple while using the tools quite well may need some time and practice. The understanding of the tools is based on those pattern.
  
 
== The pattern ==
 
== The pattern ==
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[[Image:Blacksmithing_Muster.jpg]]
 
[[Image:Blacksmithing_Muster.jpg]]
 
<br>
 
<br>
No matter what you want to forge, it is always a pattern of equilateral triangles as that used when the image in as (Ignore the point labels ... they have unfortunately not able to hide, or it would take forever: P). It's about the individual points at the right height to bring the lines then fit automatically. <br>
+
No matter what you want to forge, it is always a pattern of equilateral triangles as that used when the image in as (Ignore the point labels ... they have unfortunately not able to hide, or it would take forever: P). It's about getting the individual points at the right height, the lines will fit automatically. <br>
Now if you forge or click on the blank as you have a tool selected, the next point as the center is chosen for your tool. This reduces the amount of some points and for the other increases.
+
Now if you forge or click on the blank as you have a tool selected, the next point is chosen as the center for your tool. This reduces the height of some points and increases the height for the other.
  
 
== The tools ==
 
== The tools ==
  
Forging important is the experience with the tools, especially the required strength for the blows to correctly. It simply requires some time sometime you know when you have to beat as strong. <br>
+
The experience with the tools is important in forging, especially the required strength for correct blows. It may take some time, but at some point you'll know which force you should to use. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
 
The following are the beating pattern of the individual tools, and a brief explanation. <br>
 
The following are the beating pattern of the individual tools, and a brief explanation. <br>
Here, the tools are here arranged in order of importance (in my opinion anyway):
+
I arranged the tools in order of their importance (in my opinion anyway):
  
 
=== [[Shaping Mallet]] ===
 
=== [[Shaping Mallet]] ===
 
[[Image: Schlegel.jpg]] <br>
 
[[Image: Schlegel.jpg]] <br>
Shaping Mallet said the seven points that he directly influenced. The middle point in this case, the point B. <br>
+
Shaping Mallet has seven points that he influence dircetly. The middle point is the point B. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
For Shaping Mallet is to say that it is smooth. Thus, it will first hit the high points: If you click on a low point, which is surrounded by higher, are only brought the higher the level of the clicked point before you made ​​an effect on the point itself. <br>
+
For Shaping Mallet is to say that it is smooth. Thus, it will first hit the high points: If you click on a low point, which is surrounded by higher, it won#t affect the lower point until the surrounding points reached the same height. <br>
The Shaping Mallet moved the metal by up to 4 points away from the starting point and so he moved the metal the most, making the best use for the rough work to 8k or so very good (of course one has to distinguish from situation to situation .. . If the metal is used in the area, it is more practical to use a different tool).
+
The Shaping Mallet move the metal by up to 4 points away from the starting point and so he move the metal the most, making it the best tool to use for the rough work to 8k (of course one has to distinguish from situation to situation .. . If the metal is used in the area, it is more practical to use a different tool).
  
 
=== [[Ball Peen Hammer]] ===
 
=== [[Ball Peen Hammer]] ===
 
[[Image: Kugelhammer.jpg]] <br>
 
[[Image: Kugelhammer.jpg]] <br>
The Ball Peen Hammer has in itself the same pattern as the Shaping Mallet (center B), but the outer 6 points are much higher up, which is usually targeted only the actual point taken. <br>
+
The Ball Peen Hammer affect the same points as the Shaping Mallet (center B), but the outer 6 points are much higher up. So usually you should only affect the point you actual hit. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
The fact that with the tool almost always hits the target point actually, this tool is very good for the fine work and the 'finishing touch'. ;) <br>
+
This fact makes this tool very good for the fine work and the 'finishing touch'. ;) <br>
The small ball-peen hammer moves the metal by up to 3 away from the starting point for something completely different.
+
The Ball Peen Hammer moves the metal by up to 3 away from the starting point.
  
 
=== [[Wide Tungsten Chisel]] ===
 
=== [[Wide Tungsten Chisel]] ===
 
[[Image:Meißel.jpg]] <br>
 
[[Image:Meißel.jpg]] <br>
Thus, the tungsten chisel now has a completely different pattern! The center is the point E, the tool runs to the middle (horizontal view) pointed to. <br>
+
The tungsten chisel has a completely different pattern! The center is the point E, the red points are the lower ones. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
From its shape it can be concluded what this tool is good: for the blades to be ... But since it is not possible to rotate the bit to be use is restricted to very strong ... I use it for axes and frames blades. <br>
+
From its shape it can be concluded what this tool is used for: the blade fronts... But since it is not possible to rotate the tool its use is very restricted... I use it for hatchets and carp blades. <br>
He moved the metal by up to 3 points away from the starting point, but only forward or backwards!
+
It moves the metal by up to 3 points away from the starting point, but only forwards and backwards!
  
 
=== [[Round Hammer]] ===
 
=== [[Round Hammer]] ===
 
[[Image:Schlegel.jpg]]<br>
 
[[Image:Schlegel.jpg]]<br>
The round hammer has exactly the same pattern as the hammer and is also flat!
+
The round hammer has exactly the same pattern as the Shaping Mallet and is also flat!
 
The only difference is how far he moved the metal. <br>
 
The only difference is how far he moved the metal. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
This tool moves the metal up to 3 points away from the starting point. He also seems to me to 'weaker' than the flail, which is probably due to the distance he moved the metal.  I personally use it regularly for hatchets.
+
This tool moves the metal up to 3 points away from the starting point. He also seems to me to 'weaker' than the Shaping Mallet, which is probably due to the distance he moved the metal.  I personally use it regularly for hatchets.
  
 
= Hatchet =
 
= Hatchet =
Line 60: Line 60:
 
* 9000 Quality is three times higher than for wood (and tripled the recovery time)
 
* 9000 Quality is three times higher than for wood (and tripled the recovery time)
 
* 9650 Quality is always four times on wood (and quadruples the regeneration time)
 
* 9650 Quality is always four times on wood (and quadruples the regeneration time)
* 9999 quality is almost a factor of five to wood (and verfünfacht recovery time)
+
* 9999 quality is almost a factor of five to wood (and quintuple recovery time)
 
<br>
 
<br>
 
I'm not sure at all levels;)
 
I'm not sure at all levels;)
Line 74: Line 74:
  
 
== Start ==
 
== Start ==
So we naturally begin with the shaping mallet. For the first two pictures, the colors are as follows:
+
Ok, of course we start with the shaping mallet. For the first two pictures, the colors are as follows:
* Green: thickness 6
+
* Green: Force 6
 
* Pink: Force 7
 
* Pink: Force 7
* Blue: Strength 8
+
* Blue: Force 8
* Red: Strength 9
+
* Red: Force 9
 
The numbering is of course the order;) <br>
 
The numbering is of course the order;) <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
Line 85: Line 85:
 
[[Image:Axt-start2.jpg]]<br>
 
[[Image:Axt-start2.jpg]]<br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
Colors are on the next image is still with the addition:
+
Colors are on the next image is the same with the addition:
* Light blue: level 5
+
* Light blue: Force 5
It remains with the Shaping Mallet, except shock 48 and 49 with the round hammer (one of them with power 5 and only if it still should be a high afterwards)! <br>
+
It remains with the Shaping Mallet, except shock 48 and 49 with the round hammer (only hit one of those points, it should be enough)! <br>
 
From here I always vary somewhat, since the metal is not always move in the same direction ...
 
From here I always vary somewhat, since the metal is not always move in the same direction ...
 
In most cases, however, ended this way: <br>
 
In most cases, however, ended this way: <br>
Line 93: Line 93:
 
[[Image:Axt-start3.jpg]]<br>
 
[[Image:Axt-start3.jpg]]<br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
So now it is difficult to show the rest, because you simply must vary from now ... For the time being I use the back of the hammer round the pitch at the corners get added. <br>
+
It is difficult to show the rest, because you simply must vary from now ... For the back of the hatchet I mostly use the Round Hammer to reach the pitch at the corners. <br>
Then again I improve the pitch of the blade, I'm now a little over 8k + quality. <br>
+
Afterwards I improve the pitch of the blade (using Shaping Mallet with pretty low Force like 3 or 4), now i'm usually over 8k + quality. <br>
Then the blade is at the front using the tungsten chisel (mostly level 3) is pressed down so that they actually tapers (as seen in the target). Now I'm usually over 9000 quality and the rest is just fine-work mainly with the small ball-peen hammer. <br>
+
Then you perfect the blade at the front using the tungsten chisel (mostly level 3) so that they actually tapers (as seen in the target). Now I'm usually around 9000 quality and the rest is just fine-work mainly with the small ball-peen hammer. <br>
 
<br>
 
<br>
So that's all I can say this, hope it helps further.
+
So that's all I can say this, hope it helped.

Latest revision as of 17:38, 2 April 2011

Feel free to translate it into english here

Used Google translate for this - BlueGrass

General Information

Ok my first guide itself: I will not start from here ZERO, you should know the very basics already... Like 'higher' metal increases the number of blows or what is the goal at all or how to achieve it (by 'simple' move the metal)

Here first some 'advanced' foundations follow for forging. Understanding the pattern is pretty simple while using the tools quite well may need some time and practice. The understanding of the tools is based on those pattern.

The pattern

Blacksmithing Muster.jpg
No matter what you want to forge, it is always a pattern of equilateral triangles as that used when the image in as (Ignore the point labels ... they have unfortunately not able to hide, or it would take forever: P). It's about getting the individual points at the right height, the lines will fit automatically.
Now if you forge or click on the blank as you have a tool selected, the next point is chosen as the center for your tool. This reduces the height of some points and increases the height for the other.

The tools

The experience with the tools is important in forging, especially the required strength for correct blows. It may take some time, but at some point you'll know which force you should to use.

The following are the beating pattern of the individual tools, and a brief explanation.
I arranged the tools in order of their importance (in my opinion anyway):

Shaping Mallet

Schlegel.jpg
Shaping Mallet has seven points that he influence dircetly. The middle point is the point B.

For Shaping Mallet is to say that it is smooth. Thus, it will first hit the high points: If you click on a low point, which is surrounded by higher, it won#t affect the lower point until the surrounding points reached the same height.
The Shaping Mallet move the metal by up to 4 points away from the starting point and so he move the metal the most, making it the best tool to use for the rough work to 8k (of course one has to distinguish from situation to situation .. . If the metal is used in the area, it is more practical to use a different tool).

Ball Peen Hammer

Kugelhammer.jpg
The Ball Peen Hammer affect the same points as the Shaping Mallet (center B), but the outer 6 points are much higher up. So usually you should only affect the point you actual hit.

This fact makes this tool very good for the fine work and the 'finishing touch'. ;)
The Ball Peen Hammer moves the metal by up to 3 away from the starting point.

Wide Tungsten Chisel

Meißel.jpg
The tungsten chisel has a completely different pattern! The center is the point E, the red points are the lower ones.

From its shape it can be concluded what this tool is used for: the blade fronts... But since it is not possible to rotate the tool its use is very restricted... I use it for hatchets and carp blades.
It moves the metal by up to 3 points away from the starting point, but only forwards and backwards!

Round Hammer

Schlegel.jpg
The round hammer has exactly the same pattern as the Shaping Mallet and is also flat! The only difference is how far he moved the metal.

This tool moves the metal up to 3 points away from the starting point. He also seems to me to 'weaker' than the Shaping Mallet, which is probably due to the distance he moved the metal. I personally use it regularly for hatchets.

Hatchet

Well, what are good Hatchet should be clear - you get more wood in the collection of trees, but also simultaneously increases the time until we can again collect wood from these trees
.
counts:

  • 7000 Quality is always the double of wood (and doubles the recovery time)
  • 9000 Quality is three times higher than for wood (and tripled the recovery time)
  • 9650 Quality is always four times on wood (and quadruples the regeneration time)
  • 9999 quality is almost a factor of five to wood (and quintuple recovery time)


I'm not sure at all levels;)

Pattern

Axt1.jpg
Here again the normal image.



Axt2.jpg
Now, as a triangle pattern!

Start

Ok, of course we start with the shaping mallet. For the first two pictures, the colors are as follows:

  • Green: Force 6
  • Pink: Force 7
  • Blue: Force 8
  • Red: Force 9

The numbering is of course the order;)

Axt-start1.jpg

Axt-start2.jpg

Colors are on the next image is the same with the addition:

  • Light blue: Force 5

It remains with the Shaping Mallet, except shock 48 and 49 with the round hammer (only hit one of those points, it should be enough)!
From here I always vary somewhat, since the metal is not always move in the same direction ... In most cases, however, ended this way:

Axt-start3.jpg

It is difficult to show the rest, because you simply must vary from now ... For the back of the hatchet I mostly use the Round Hammer to reach the pitch at the corners.
Afterwards I improve the pitch of the blade (using Shaping Mallet with pretty low Force like 3 or 4), now i'm usually over 8k + quality.
Then you perfect the blade at the front using the tungsten chisel (mostly level 3) so that they actually tapers (as seen in the target). Now I'm usually around 9000 quality and the rest is just fine-work mainly with the small ball-peen hammer.

So that's all I can say this, hope it helped.